Sunday, November 20, 2011

One Reason to Visit The West Bank...

Aroma Coffee Shop, Eilat
I got off at the bus depot, to the North West of Jerusalem and wandered down the Jaffa Rd towards Ben Yahuda St, which somebody told me was the centre of town, and I checked in to the Abraham Hostel.  Jerusalem is an extremely clean, smart, impressive city, with a population of 750,000.  It is also the holiest site for Christians and Jews, and the 3rd holiest site for the religion of peace and tolerance, after Mecca and Medina.

Jaffa Rd, the main road through Jerusalem.
Ben Yehuda St, one of the main shopping areas of Jerusalem.
                               
During World War One the British had captured ‘Palestine’ from the Ottoman Empire, during which time my own unit won 2 Victoria Crosses, and General Allenby had symbolically walked into the city to accept the surrender, as a visiting pilgrim, rather than as a conquering warrior.  After the Paris Peace Treaties at the end of WW1, we were mandated to govern Palestine, and to stop the Jews and Palestinians from killing each other there.  After World War Two, and the Holocaust, many European Jews wanted to return to the ‘promised land’ of Israel, but fearing the impact of such massive immigration, the British authorities attempted to control this. The response of the Jews in Israel was to launch a terrorist campaign against the British, killing soldiers in various incidents, the most notorious of which was the bombing of the King David Hotel in Jerusalem.  This led the British to wisely withdraw and leave the locals to crack on with killing each other to their hearts’ content, which they duly did, resulting in the Jews taking control in 1948.  The Arabs in Israel then had the choice of either remaining as Israeli citizens, or withdrawing to the Gaza strip by the border with Egypt, or to the West Bank of the River Jordan, neither of which were under Israeli control at that stage.  This is why there is a population of ‘Israeli Arabs’ who are distinct from the Palestinians and who live and move freely in Israel, serve in the Israeli Defence Force (IDF) etc. 
In the 1967 Six Day War, the Israelis pushed out from their ’48 borders and seized the Golan Heights from Syria, the Sinai Peninsula from Egypt as well as the ‘occupied territories’ of the West Bank and Gaza strip.  A policy of building ‘Settlement’ enclaves of Israelis, guarded by IDF soldiers, was then pursued in both territories.  Although the Israelis withdrew from Gaza a couple of years ago, leaving it to become a little Jihadi paradise, there is still a massive Israeli presence inside the West Bank, due to the terrorist threat, and common sense suggested it would probably be wise for me to stay away.

Standard image of the West Bank.
 Once I’d got into the hostel I was reading an article in an English language newspaper about the release of Cpl Gilad Shalit, the IDF soldier whose Palestinian kidnappers released him in exchange for 1,020 Palestinian terrorists being released by the Israelis.  Apparently the Palestinians think that was an overwhelming success, and want another go so there is a massive threat among the IDF of getting kidnapped.  This is probably why a Rabbi got shot dead at a VCP (Vehicle Check Point) by a jumpy soldier the other night in the West Bank.  The IDF have also ordered the implementation of the ‘Abraham Policy’ which is that if a soldier is kidnapped, the vehicle carrying him is to be engaged, even if it means harming the soldier.  I couldn’t help wondering how the Palestinians would view kidnapping a British soldier, and I reckon they’d take the opportunity if it arose, then find out afterwards...

IDF Cpl Shalit during his captivity in Gaza.
                       
After a couple of beers on my first evening in Jerusalem, I was sitting festering in breakfast in the hostel, on Tuesday morning, in my US Marine Corps shorts and ‘Operation Enduring Freedom’ T-shirt, making vague plans to go to the Old City.  Suddenly an extremely attractive Danish girl, who recognised me from Tel Aviv, came over and asked me if I wanted to go with her to the West Bank as she was going shortly on her own.  Having very briefly considered the absolute best case scenario that could emerge from this offer, I agreed- although I had to get changed into some clothing less likely to guarantee me an orange suit, a large knife and 5 minutes of fame on Al Jazeera!
After walking up to the bus station by the Damascus Gate to the Old City we hopped on the number 18 bus to Ramallah, the capital of the Palestinian controlled area.  Ramallah is only a few K’s from Jerusalem, the other side of the security wall, and the bus was full of a mixture of locals and Western tourists.  Once we got to Ramallah we had a wander around the centre, which bore an uncanny resemblance to Basra in 04, although it is more affluent- and I was slightly differently dressed.  There was definitely a tourism industry, and the opportunity to buy plenty of rubbish from the locals, like anywhere else in Asia.  One thing that struck me was the number of pictures of Yasser Arafat, the late Palestinian leader who is clearly revered by the Palestinians.

Downtown Ramallah.
                                                  
‘Anna’, my Danish companion, shared my enthusiasm to ignore the tourist bit and to try and find some locals to talk to, to get ‘the vibe’- and I also had to get my caffeine fix.  We wandered off down some prominent road, a couple of hundred meters from the bustling centre, and found a little cafe, with a couple of friendly locals hanging around watching Al Jazeera, which was showing the fun and games in Syria.  We then chatted with the locals, for a couple of minutes until their English had been exhausted, I threw around a few “Salaam Aleykum”s and “Shukrans”, and they had to send for their mate who could speak good English, and was an interesting chap.
‘Haj’ turned up and immediately told us that life for the Palestinians on the West Bank is “Absolute hell”, but that all he wants is for his children to enjoy the same life as American children- or Danish or English.  He said the main issue was with the Settlements, and the impact they had on the locals.  He said that because of where these were built, the roads were all blocked or re-routed, making commutes for Palestinians much longer than necessary.  He also said that the IDF were out on patrol every night, and there was a picture on the wall of an 11 year old boy who’d been killed by an Israeli bullet, 11 years ago.  Anna commented on the physical differences/ similarities between the Palestinians, the Israeli Arabs and the Israelis, and Haj said that they all look the same and “When you get arrested by the IDF they appear out of nowhere, they are in civilian clothes and you only know when they show their weapons”.  While this reminded me of ‘feel good’ Northern Ireland stories, it also made me wonder why exactly he’d been arrested by Israeli Special Forces, probably YAMAS.

Undercover Israeli policemen from the elite YAMAS unit, who are most likely to have arrested my Palestinian acquaintance!
                                     
I then spotted a poster of Saddam Hussein, on the wall behind me, and they said he was also highly regarded, which was nice to know, given where I spent the first half of 2004.  The best part of the conversation for me, though, was when he said that after he finished work about 6pm, when it would be pitch dark, he was happy to take us for a drive around the West Bank and show us the settlements, etc.  While Anna was very keen on the idea and took his phone number, I just smiled to myself as there was no way either of us would be doing that.  I considered the possible outcomes of driving around with a guy who’s clearly known to the IDF:  if I didn’t get shot by them I’d have a few very, very interesting ‘interviews without coffee’ with them, explaining why exactly I was driving around the West Bank with a possible terrorist!   

Typical image of an Israeli settlement within the West Bank.
                   
Once we left that shop we headed back to the bus station and got the bus North to Nablus, which is about an hour away from Ramallah, and has a reputation for being somewhat more 'edgy'.  On the way we passed various Palestinian security forces who were extremely smart, and while Anna thought they must be Israelis, their AK weapons were the only indication that they weren’t.  On the bus we had another local chap pointing out the settlements and blocked roads to us and explaining the system that the Israelis had channelled all the traffic so that if there was an ‘incident’ they could lock the place down, and it wasn’t unknown for an entire night to be spent at the side of the road- fingers crossed the Palestinians could play nicely before we got back over ‘the wall’!  We passed various 'surge' check points that were obviously there to be manned if there was an incident, and at one point I spotted a crowd of Israeli soldiers, tooled up, with helmets on rather than soft hats, appearing to be getting a brief.  Our ‘guide’ also complained that the Israelis would often just stop people because they didn’t like the look of them- much like I used to do in Iraq...

IDF troops manning a Vehicle Check Point in the West Bank
                                      
When we got to Nablus, the first thing we noticed was how incredible a setting it is, built into a natural amphitheatre, on the surrounding hills.  We decided to pursue the tried and tested method of going to get a coffee and see what happened.  In the coffee shop the guy couldn’t speak English, but he was impressed I worked out he was from Jordan as he had pictures of the late King Hussein, and the current King Abdullah on the wall.  The good old Lonely Planet gave us the unlikely impression there was a refugee camp close to the city centre, so we decided to try and find it.  I was contemplating asking the other customers in the shop how to get there, when my instincts suggested that these 3 ‘fighting age’ men playing cards might not be exactly friendly, so we just left. 

Nablus, often prefixed with "The flash-point town of...", located 40 miles/ 60 KM's from Jerusalem
            
After finding a shop keeper (selling ornate fire places- WTF???), who told us that the Refugee Camp was miles away, but we should visit the ‘Old City’ we headed a couple of blocks up there.  This appeared to be a very long, narrow, white walled street, which would have been an absolute delight for an IDF patrol to be caught in if it ‘went kinetic’. 
                                                           
Old City of Nablus
More of the Old City
 
As we walked along the street chatting, looking in the shops etc, I noticed a large number of unusual posters, and I had a pretty good idea what they were.  They were glossy A4 sized, and depicted the Al-Aqsa mosque in Jerusalem in the background, and each one showed a young man in military uniform, invariably carrying a very ‘gucci’ looking M4 rifle with laser sights, torches etc, and they could be mistaken for film posters. I stopped a local, pointed at one and using my fairly specific knowledge of Arabic asked “Shaheed?”  He nodded, acknowledging that these were posters of “Martyrs”, terrorists who had either blown themselves up or had been helped on their way to Allah by the IDF.  After explaining this to Anna, her understandable reaction was confusion that the locals didn’t just take down the posters of these evil men.  The fact they are regarded as the ultimate ‘alpha-male’ celebrities by the locals concentrated her mind somewhat, gave her a whole new perception on life and she was suddenly very, very quiet.  

Typical 'Shaheed' poster of some young terrorist who got himself killed, one way or another.
                                                  
She stopped to take a photo of a shop with a load of the terrorist posters around the shop front, and the friendly owner started chatting to us in perfect English, learned while studying pharmacology at university in Brighton in the 80’s.  I asked about the ‘Shaheed’ boys and his face lit up as he was telling me that the one whose poster was most common in the city was a great guy called ‘Gadaffi’, and his uncle’s house was 100m away, and his parents’ house was 500m away and that we should go round and visit...  At this point he made eye- contact with me, and suddenly froze, possibly suspecting who I might be, and abruptly went to serve another customer, in Arabic.  We were suddenly aware that the street was full of ‘fighting age’ men, the 2 of us were the only Westerners, and they were staring right at us, which is quite an interesting position to be in, particularly when unarmed.  That awesome clarity of thought I’ve only rarely experienced came over me, “Let’s go!”
I headed off down the narrow street through the crowd with Anna, silent and terrified, virtually on my back.  I tried to find an exit to an open area or a main road, but it just went on and on and on.  Eventually we got to a market area where vehicles were driving through, and we did a left and got out into the open, near the main road which had brought us into the city.  From here we headed towards the bus station, and got on a minibus back to Ramallah just as it was getting dark.  “So, Anna, still want to go for a drive around the West Bank with Haj?”  No chance!
From the comparative civilization of Ramallah, we then got the bus back to the security barrier on the edge of Jerusalem, got off the bus to go through airport style security, while the bus was searched, and then crossed out of the West Bank with a collective sigh of relief.  Once back at the hostel, we went for a couple of quiet drinks at the local Mike’s Place bar by Ben Yehuda St, with some other people from the hostel, and Anna was an extremely happy girl.  It turned out that the trip to the West Bank had, in fact, been entirely worth the risk...
The next day I bid farewell to Anna as she was heading off down to the beach resort of Eilat which is 4 hours South of Jerusalem, and I still had to see Jerusalem properly, before heading North.  I intended to visit Nazareth, the Golan Heights, and the port of Haifa where there are some Crusader relics.

Old City of Jerusalem with Jewish Western 'Wailing' Wall in the foreground, and the Islamic Dome of the Rock in the background.
                                   
I visited the Old City of West Jerusalem, which is much the same as on TV, although full of lunatics who either think they’re the Messiah, or are at least on personal terms with the Big Man.  Having done this and planned my trip towards the Golan Heights, I then got a message from Anna saying I was welcome to come and join her in sunny Eilat on the Red Sea.  The choice before me was to spend my last week of leave on my own in the cold and wet, looking at historically important sites, or spending time on the beach with Anna.  The agony of decisions...

Red Sea beach resort of Eilat.
                       

Saturday, November 19, 2011

Masada

The Abraham Hostel, Jerusalem
Having got into the hostel at Masada, and getting to bed at a sensible time, sober, I ended up lying awake until 4.30AM when I had to get up for the obligatory ritual at Masada: a swift climb up the mountain to watch the sunrise over Jordan, on the other side of the Dead Sea.
Masada is a symbolic site to Jewish/ Israeli people as it is where the Jewish revolt against the Roman Empire came to a spectacular end, a couple of decades after Jesus’s death. When reading about the Romans’ fights, I always find myself identifying with them as they are the smart, disciplined army fighting against savages, who would be better off if they just accepted Roman rule- much like whenever British soldiers fight.  Masada is a hilltop fort that King Herod (the original ‘baby-killer’) had built and the Romans were using, effectively, as a FOB (Forward Operating Base), until the Jews revolted, over ran the fort, and used it launch attacks against the Roman garrison. 
In response to this the Romans besieged the hilltop fort, with 900 odd rebels inside, for two years.  As they were unable to actually get at the fort they got slaves to build a vast ramp up to the fort so they could get their ‘siege kit’ up to the walls of the fort.  Once the rebels on the inside realised that the siege towers etc were about to be in a position from which the Roman soldiers would have a ‘break in point’, they took the decision to kill themselves rather than be taken alive by the Romans.  10 men were chosen, by lots, to kill the other 900 odd people in the fort, before killing themselves, so when the Romans got into the fort, all they encountered were dead bodies.  This act is regarded as great act of heroism by the Jewish people and Israeli Defence Force units, who I have enormous respect for, have their initiation ceremonies up on the hilltop.  However, I have to say, I think it is a bit defeatist and I prefer the story of the Alamo, where the besieged Texans were all killed, but went out ‘with a bang’ taking 3 times as many attackers with them. ‘Hoo-ah!’ as the yanks would say.
Anyway, after breakfast at the hostel, I got a lift from a very nice British couple, who had a hire car, up to the Ein Gedi bus stop, where I could get a bus back to Jerusalem.  While quietly minding my own business at the bus stop, about half a dozen teenage Israeli delinquents came over to me.  Initially they demanded a cigarette from me, which was a non-starter, then once they realised where I was from I was drawn into the inevitable conversation about football, and had to pretend that I supported Chelsea.  One guy asked me if I was Jewish, and then made no attempt to hide his disapproval of the fact I’m not.  The highlight of the conversation, for me, was when an Israeli Air Force C130 transport plane suddenly flew over us and the boys were cheering “Hurray!  They’re going to bomb Iran!” which made laugh- that’s the spirit!
Anyway, from there I headed on up to Jerusalem, which is not actually in England’s green and pleasant land, after all...

Sunday, November 13, 2011

An Englishman in Tel Aviv

Masada Guest House, Israel
Having booked my flight to Israel on Tuesday, I arrived at the El Al check in at Heathrow on Thursday ready for the inevitable heavy security.  There were more British police there, at the point any bad guy would be spotted, than I’ve noticed for any other flight, which made sense.  I managed to be singled out for the classic ‘single guy travelling on his own’ profile, which the male and female Israeli security people wouldn’t let rest.  “You don’t know anyone in Israel, why are you going there?”- “Because it’s warm, interesting and small enough to see in 10 days,” and “How much do you know about the problems in the middle east?”- “Probably more than everybody else on this plane,” (humble to a fault).  Then “I’m a Platoon Sergeant in the British Infantry, I have been to Iraq and Afghanistan, I have got 3 weeks before I start training to go back again, I am seriously not the terrorist or peace activist you are looking for... now tell me a decent bar to go to in Tel Aviv!”  Eventually they satisfied themselves that I wasn’t actually off to wage Jihad, and told me Mike’s Place on the waterfront is the place to go.
The flight was only notable for the outstandingly attractive El Al stewardesses, compared to BA, American Airlines and Emirates.  I slept most of the way on the 5 hour flight which is just fractionally further than flying to Akrotiri in Cyprus.  At this stage I thought it might be wise to memorise an address of a hostel to give at the other end, although I hadn’t booked anything, so I had a glance at the ‘Lonely Planet’ and got the name and address of a hostel, near the beach, near Mike’s Place, on Allenbey St.  However, the most interesting thing I discovered in Lonely Planet (which I generally hate) was that Hamas, the ultra-lunatic Palestinian terrorist group that runs the Gaza strip, is the descendent of a gang set up in the 30’s to wage Jihad against the British there- and whose founder member was shot dead by British soldiers.  Perhaps El Al at Heathrow could do with reading that.
We landed at about 10 PM and my first impression of Tel Aviv airport, which they won’t thank me for, is that the smell of Body Odour reminded me of the Afghan Army bases.
I decided to get a cab to Allenbey St to find somewhere to dump my kit, and the cabby was telling me his experiences in the Yom Kippur war in ’73 as a tank driver, which was all interesting.  My alternative plan to a hostel was to find the Tel Aviv version of Inferno’s (called ‘Cats and Dogs’ BTW), and, er, ‘back myself’ to find some nice Israeli bird to accommodate me, however I discarded that idea as I couldn’t be bothered dragging my kit to a bar.  I eventually found a decent hostel, 1 block back from the beach, and checked in about 1130PM.  Before I’d even got to my room I was drinking beer with an interesting crowd of young guys in the foyer.
These were guys from the ‘Diaspora’ of non Israeli Jews, who’d come here from the US, South Africa and elsewhere to voluntarily join the Israeli Defence Force, the IDF, and they were a great crowd of guys.  I had a couple of things going for me in their eyes- my own military experience, and the fact I’d gone out, years ago, with the cousin of Joel Stransky, who was not only the Springbok ’95 team’s version of Jonny Wilkinson, but is also from a prominent Jewish family in Johannesburg.
The other person sitting with us was also interesting, in an entirely different way.  She was a non-Jewish, Norwegian teacher who had come out here with her ideals of saving the Palestinians from the Israelis... and after 2 months in the West Bank she utterly despised the Palestinians, and was much happier to be getting drunk in Tel Aviv.  She appreciated my favourite definition of a conservative, as being a liberal who has been mugged.
Thursday night saw a couple of us going to Mike’s Place, watching some American Football game there, which kicked off at 3.30AM, and then proceeding to  drink until the sun came up about 7.  Definitely a good first impression!
Friday started slowly, and after a couple of hours on the beach (it’s 23C here) proceeded to another all night drinking session, so on Saturday I felt I had to make an effort to get more than 500m from my hostel.  After walking off to find an ATM in the mid-afternoon I then got on the water front and headed South towards Jaffa.  Without being flippant, Tel Aviv is like a cross between Miami Beach and Basra, which shouldn’t be as surprising as it may seem as Basra is another Middle Eastern port city and is only a short, F16 flight away across Syria- as Saddam Hussein’s own nuclear workers outside Baghdad discovered in the early 1980’s...
After 20-30 minutes walking among the Israelis enjoying their ‘Sunday’ Sabbath, I got to the old city of Jaffa and had a wander round.  Jaffa is the ancient city, which Tel Aviv emerged from, and it was interesting to read an abridged history of who’d controlled it, ranging from the Persians (Iranians) to the Romans to ourselves.  There’s some reference to ‘The British destroying buildings to allow armoured vehicles through’ in the 1930’s- well we were in charge, we could do what we liked...
After a Saturday night that started with watching the ‘soccer’ between England and Spain, it then deteriorated to once again drinking all night, at Mike’s Place.  This is the place that a ‘British passport holder’ from Bradford or somewhere similar walked into and blew himself up, several years before the July 7th bombings in London, although they were all from the same gang.  The staff generally sound American, although they will slip into Hebrew with some customers, and it reminded me of South Africa where everybody is bi-lingual, in terms of understanding, but will generally speak English or Afrikaans as they prefer.  One of the managers was an older guy, from Toronto, who’d been a sniper in the IDF in the early 90’s, while the younger one, from New Jersey, had been an infantryman, but had been wounded by shrapnel in Lebanon in 2006.  Interestingly, we met 2 girls of the right age to be doing military service, and 1 was about to start, while the other was a ‘refusenik’ who was dodging her service.  While there was some talk of ‘her choice’, the older IDF veteran said “Right, and it should be our choice to deny you health care, the vote, etc...”  No strong feelings there, then. 
 An all nighter then having to check out of my hostel at 11AM is always a good combination.  I got the local bus up to Tel Aviv bus station, then on to Jerusalem bus station, which is about an hour’s journey.  In Jerusalem I spent a couple of hours on the internet, waiting for my bus to Masada and saw dozens of Israeli soldiers going to/ from duty, but carrying their weapons and magazines, which was like being back in a yank ‘chow hall’ in Afghan.  They actually looked far scruffier than the average British or American soldier would ever look, although I think you can tell which ones are in the infantry and which ones aren’t, like anywhere else.  Unlike anywhere else, you also see civilians going around with M4 assault rifles, which is probably reassuring.
My bus to Mesada at 4.15PM, went out of Jerusalem and straight into the West Bank, which surprised me- and made me wish I had an M4.  It was a commuter bus and just stuck to the highway, going past Jericho and heading south, via various ‘Settlements’, dropping off commuters as it got dark.  Once we got to the Southern end of the West Bank we got to an IDF checkpoint where the bus was boarded by a very attractive Military Policewoman, before we were sent on our way.  I’d asked the bus driver to let me know when we got to the ‘Masada Guest House’, about 20 k’s South of Ein Gedi, on the Dead Sea, and 2 hours from Jerusalem. 
We pulled into the side of a road and he told me it was my stop, so off I jumped, with my raging hangover, into the night, and as the bus left I was just on my own, in the pitch dark with no clue where I was in relation to anywhere.  I spotted a light at a checkpoint and after walking over to it I was pointed in the direction of the actual guest house, and prayed it wasn’t fully booked, otherwise I was in for a memorable night!  Fortunately there was a spare bed, and I got my head down ready for this morning’s trip up to the old fort of Masada...  

Saturday, June 11, 2011

Living the Brecon Dream

Starbucks, Clapham, London
After my 3 weeks on the beach in Malaysia I spent a very pleasant, and drunken, long weekend in Singapore before flying back to London on Tuesday the 17th of May, arriving back in London in time to be in the pub in Clapham Old Town by about 8.30 PM.  A couple of weeks earlier I'd got an email from my Platoon Commander asking if I wanted to do ‘Senior Brecon’, the Platoon Sergeants’ Battle Course (TA), which would make me eligible for promotion to Sergeant, at the Infantry Battle School, Brecon on the 21st of May.  As I was at that point sitting in the beach bar, surrounded by Dutch birds in bikinis, and there was truly nowhere in the world that I wanted to be less than Brecon, I said that I didn’t.  Inevitably, after a good few drinks in Clapham, I got home about 3AM, checked my emails and had a very cheery email from my Company Commander (the Platoon Commander’s boss) telling me that I was now a ‘local’ Sergeant (wear the rank, but don’t get the pay) and wishing me luck with the course 3 days later.  As ever, if you can’t take a joke, don’t join.
In February 2009, while in the process of ending an engagement and relationship (to the same bird), and with the traditional 3 days’ notice, I did ‘Junior Brecon’, the Section Commanders’ Battle Course, which made me eligible for promotion to Corporal- and at various points I vowed that I was never, ever going back to Wales, ever under any circumstances.  My lasting memory of that course was ‘Reacting to Effective Enemy Fire’ and diving into an icy stream, leopard crawling (when you’re on your belt-buckle with your body pressed to the ground) up it, as the water flowed down inside the top of my Combat Body Armour, then leopard crawling out across the snow towards the ‘enemy’ position. Massive crowd pleaser.
The lowest formation in the British infantry is the Rifle Section, which is 8 men commanded by a Corporal, the Section Commander (my current job), with a Lance Corporal (the first rung up from Private) as his 2nd In Command, 2IC, each of whom will lead a 4 man Fire Team, ‘Charlie’ and ‘Delta’, respectively.  Within a Platoon (Pl) there are 3 Sections, as well as a Platoon Commander, who will be a junior officer fresh from Sandhurst, an ‘old and bold’ Sergeant, who runs the Platoon for the ‘PC’ and a few others such as a Radio Operator (the job I did in Iraq) to bring the number up to about 30.  Three Platoons will then make up the Company (Coy), which is commanded by a Major, run by the Company Sergeant Major, and numbers about 100 men. 
Basic training and the Combat Infantryman’s Course get soldiers used to being able to operate effectively when they’re cold, wet, tired and uncomfortable.  Consequently the purpose of the infantry promotion courses is to ensure that commanders can not only operate under those conditions but can also plan, make decisions and command when they’re under pressure.  The fact is there is a myth generated about ‘Brecon’, generally by people who want to justify not going themselves.  Nothing done there is particularly unachievable for anyone mentally and physically robust enough to be an infantry soldier; it is just that the climate and terrain of the Sennybridge Training Area makes it a pretty grim place.  For 12 out of 14 days it rained sideways, causing plenty of “Glad I’m doing the summer course”, “Life doesn’t get better than this”, “This is what we joined for,” type observations.  The ground underfoot is either ‘baby’s head’, ankle snapping clumps of grass rising out of the bogs, or steep slopes, or a combination- winner!
The Infantry Battle School, Brecon is seen as the ultimate school of excellence for soldiering in the UK, i.e. the world, and the instructors or DS (Directing Staff) are generally some of the most experienced and best soldiers in the army.  When at one point my DS Platoon Commander, a Captain who had won the Military Cross in Afghanistan, said “F*ck me, if I was in the TA I’d spend all my time doing tours and going travelling,” I couldn’t help feeling that his opinion must count for something...
The structure of the TA Brecon courses is that for 2 weeks the sections and platoons are made up of a mixture of potential Section Commanders, Platoon Sergeants and Platoon Commanders, all of whom will be taught how to do their respective jobs and take turns at playing that role as a Command Appointment.   When not ‘in appointment’ everybody plays the role of being a ‘Jock’/ ‘Tom’ (Private, depending whether Scottish/ English unit) within the platoon, and does the joyous task of Section 2IC which basically means you are everybody’s bitch.
After my 3 days’ notice for the Platoon Sergeants’ Course I turned up at the TA Centre on the Friday evening , spent the night on a PT mat, then headed up to Brecon with the other guys from my unit in the minibus first thing in the morning.  The best thing about Brecon is that, apart from officers, it is only for experienced infantrymen, including Royal Marines and the so called RAF Regiment, and ‘soldiers from another unit’, so the standard of soldier is as high as you can ever hope for- and no matter how much you’re suffering everybody else is suffering at least as much!  After arriving, having our documentation checked and being given our accommodation we then had about an hour to pack our kit with 25KG’s/ 55lb’s ready for the introductory 6 miler Combat Fitness Test, to blow out the cobwebs.  I never find CFT’s particularly difficult, although they do let you know if you’ve got any injuries or not.  However, there were a few people who were embarrassing themselves with a lack of fitness, which is a pet hate of mine.  How can you expect to lead infantry soldiers if they’re laughing at you for being a fat mong? 
The first week of the course was basically a teaching and revising phase, focussing on the current vogue term, DCC, Dismounted Close Combat- killing the enemy just using the guys you have and what they can carry.  Part of the week was spent doing blank-firing Section Attacks, using the mechanics of ‘Fire and Manoeuvre’, where nobody moves towards an enemy position unless somebody else is firing at the position.  We also used the opportunity to practise our individual drills such as using the ground to provide the best cover, moving fire position after every couple of rounds, changing magazines quickly, ideally while on the move (well ‘ally’ when you get that right!!), ensuring there is correct communication within the section, i.e. lots of shouting “Contact front!”, “Move!”, “Magazine!”, “Move!” etc. 

The general procedure would be that the section would advance across open ground until ‘contacted’ by the enemy, they would then go to ground, locate the enemy and suppress him so he’s fixed in place.  The Section Commander would then decide what he was going to do, which generally meant Delta Fire Team stayed put, suppressing the enemy, while Charlie F/T with the Sect Cmd moved to a flank and took advantage of some form of cover (invariably a stream) to run/ crawl up to as close as possible to the enemy position.  A practise grenade would then be lobbed in and the Sect Cmd and his lucky assistant would ‘kill’ the Gurkhas playing enemy, before calling “Position Clear!” and then Delta F/T would leg it it up the same 'proven' route as fast as they could and everyone would regroup around the enemy position.
The rest of the first week for the Platoon Commanders and Platoon Sergeants was spent doing TEWT’s, Tactical Exercise Without Troops (AKA Pointless Exercise Not Involving Soldiers...) where we would be presented with a hypothetical scenario involving enemy positions and then plan how we would use our platoon to deal with it.  We would then deliver our plan to the DS and the remaining students, and the plan and delivery would then be critiqued/ savaged.  There was also time in the first week for a cheeky individual Navigation Exercise around the training area in the sideways rain- the trick being to concentrate, get it right, get round ASAP so you could spend as much time as possible in the barn, drinking tea, waiting for the ‘navigationally embarrassed’ mongs to finish!  The guy who came last on that was actually a Mortar Fire Controller whose job was to call in Indirect Fire, a job where one would have thought that an ability to map read might be an advantage.  On the Friday we did a brisk stroll over Pen-Y-Fan, the highest point in the Brecon Beacons.  The highlight of ‘The Fan’ for me was carrying the kit of some weak, 12 year old looking Platoon Commander, who I’d actually trained when he was a recruit a couple of years ago, most of the way round.  When he told me at the end that I had done a very good job he was somewhat surprised by the colourful, not entirely respectful, response he got...
Week 2 began on the Saturday, and was entirely based in the field or a primitive F.O.B. (Forward Operating Base).   As well as various ‘Advances to Contact’ and Platoon Attacks we also did Reconnaissance Patrols and my personal favourite FIBUA- Fighting In Built Up Areas (often referred to as FISH- Fighting In Someone’s House...).  When I was first taught FIBUA, 10 years or so ago, pre 9/11, it was very much hypothetical, based on what people had read about Stalingrad, Hue etc.  Today, it is very sobering to know that the instructors, and students, have often done it for real, throwing grenades into rooms in Basra or Afghanistan, and then going into deal with what’s left.  My ‘Command Disappointment’ as Platoon Sergeant was for the 24 hours that included the FIBUA phase and it went fairly well, I got a good understanding of what went on and I actually really enjoyed it. 
The main realisation of the job was that while the Platoon Commander makes a plan and tells the Section Commanders what is going to happen (in his mind at least) nobody within the Platoon tells the Pl Sgt what to do, you just have to know what everyone else is up to and wants to achieve, and then make it happen for them.
The final phase of the exercise was based in a forestry block, in a ‘platoon harbour’ (tactical campsite) and we just launched a series of day and night deliberate platoon attacks.  Apart from 1 patrol as the GPMG machine gunner (12 KG’s rather than the 5 KG rifle), I did the job of Section 2IC pretty much the whole time, as I’d done it far more often than the rest of the section, over the years- and I couldn’t bear seeing the other guys’ faces drop at the suggestion they might be up next!  Our penultimate attack involved us crawling through a stream, under a culvert to attack a Taliban, sorry ‘insurgent’, held building while I had my Commander’s radio and 30 mags worth of ammunition- the ultimate abs workout!  We eventually finished the final night attack, got back to camp and then I got to bed at 4 AM on the Friday- ready for a 6AM start, a few “Well done you” presentations before heading back to London as a ‘course qualified’ sergeant.
After 3 nights of ‘revelry’ in London I then linked up with my own unit on Monday morning for what was effectively the first week of Pre-Deployment Training for next March’s return to Afghanistan.  Firstly we all completed the mandatory annual shooting test, which involves firing at targets from different ranges, using different fire positions- standing at 200m being the most popular...  Once everyone had passed this phase we then took the familiar route up the M4 motorway, over the Severn Bridge and back to Brecon and the Sennybridge Training area.  Words cannot express the euphoria this filled me with.
Needless to say, of the 2 Corporals in the 30 strong group, I was the only one who had done Senior Brecon, so I played the role of Platoon Sergeant as well as Section Commander for the week.  The week involved progressive live fire training starting with individual, where the same use of ground, fire positions, mag changes etc were practised.  We then worked through the ranges at pairs, fire team and section level up to a full platoon attack on the last day.  While the training during the previous couple of weeks had been entirely blank-firing, live firing is always much more interesting, and keeps you on your toes- particularly at night, with someone behind you firing!  The safety staff were from the unit who we’re going to be attached to in Afghan, and they were fairly pleased with what they saw in terms of our own ‘skills and drills’. 
Generally I find waiting around in the cold and wet pretty uninspiring, wherever I am.  However once the adrenaline gets going and you’re oblivious to the weight of your kit, running at Mach 10 across the babies’ heads, diving into streams, shredding your knees and elbows on the rocks etc before getting into the enemy position and pumping rounds into the target, it is a massive rush, and not an entirely different feeling to playing rugby.  Two different regular (as opposed to TA) Sergeants made the observation to me of “F*ck me you’re well mad for this!”  I guess, having done everything I have in life, there is no doubt as to where my true motivation lies...

Tuesday, April 12, 2011

The Killing Fields, Cambodia

Paddy Rice’s Irish pub, the water front, Phnom Penh, Cambodia
On Friday, we got the 6 hour bus from Saigon to here in Phnom Penh, and the contrast with the 24 hr horror journey from Laos to Hanoi could not have been greater.  Bright sunshine, clean and modern border control and a ferry trip across the Mekong thrown in- all good.
"Ferry... cross the Mekong"
After arriving in the middle of nowhere in the city, being surrounded by hordes of parasitic Tuk-Tuk ‘drivers’, the 4 of us crammed ourselves and our kit into one and got a lift to a hotel (no doubt owned by the driver’s  mother in law or cousin) near the waterfront. 
"Tuk-Tuk!"
After this we then went for some food and beers along the waterfront, and realised that we were once again in the land of the walking ATM’s where all the locals view every single westerner as instant cash.  If I’ve just ordered a round of drinks then mistakenly make eye contact with some idiot out on the pavement, am I really going to want a Tuk-Tuk at that precise moment?  Bunch of clowns.  “You want Tuk-Tuk?”...  “You want nose-bleed?”
In the morning we got up bright and early to go and experience the principle joys of Phnom Penh: the shooting range, and the Killing Fields.  Having fired more different types of weapons, more often than I care to remember, and having spent endless hours of my life cleaning them, generally the novelty of ‘shooting guns’ has long worn off.  However when I had a couple of Aussie lads, and a couple of birds, wanting to do it I couldn’t exactly resist the opportunity to put the uppity colonials in their place!  Unfortunately, the trip started badly as our 2 Tuk-Tuk drivers drove off in opposite directions.  Although ours assured us that we were going to the same place, just by a shorter route, once we arrived he’d forgotten how to speak English and just looked blankly at us and we realised we wouldn’t see the others any time soon. 
Unsurprisingly, the range itself would have given the ‘pamphlet-head’ geeks of the Small Arms School Corps, who oversee all our weapons training and range work, complete coronary failure.  There was a pile of loaded weapons on the floor or hanging on the wall and while it wasn’t surprising that there were plenty of Eastern Block weapons (as everywhere in the 3rd world), I’d be interested to know how they’d got hold of both a ‘Gimpy’ Machine Gun, which we use, and a French FA MAS rifle, which came into service about 30 yrs after Dien Bien Phu.  There was a menu of options to choose from with their prices, ranging from a 30 round M-16 or AK mag for $40 to an RPG (shoulder-mounted Rocket Propelled Grenade) for $350.  Fun for all the family.
I went up first into the indoor 25m range with an AK (the AK-47 is one of many widely available AK variants and as I can’t tell most of them apart I somehow doubt the media, who confidently identify it everywhere, can either).  Since before Iraq in ’04 I’d handled the AK a few times as it’s generally accepted that if we need to ‘slot’ someone he (or she) will be carrying one, and we may have to remove it and clear it, ideally without shooting our own feet off.  Last year in Afghan was the first chance I’d had to actually fire it and it is quite good fun, for want of a better word, hence why I was quite happy to have another go- I guess I haven’t entirely grown out of it...
Firing AK
After I’d used up my $40 I was then wincing as the local, who may or may not have been a serving Cambodian soldier, attempted to teach my mates how to operate the AK and M-16.  He was quite relieved when I just took over from him, and played the role of Skill At Arms instructor.  I will never, ever be the tool who takes over at a barbecue or with DIY to show off ‘Alpha Male’ qualities because I really don’t need to and lawyers or accountants need the opportunity more.  However, there are times when you’ve just got to take over.  After some brief instruction and guidance, my fellow travellers then really enjoyed their first experiences of shooting, including on ‘automatic’ (only 2-3 round bursts, no ‘Baghdad Unloads’) and were buzzing afterwards- there were no fatalities or Gun Shot Wounds!  
Chicks with guns...
The next part of the Cambodian experience, however, definitely brought the mood down to earth as we headed out to the killing fields.  At Choeung Ek  some of the 2 million people, of a population of 8 million, killed during the regime of Pol Pot’s Khmer Rouge in the 70’s were buried.  Here people were brought out from the S-21 prison and were dumped in mass graves after being killed in a variety of methods- shooting was avoided in order to preserve ammunition.  The most graphically described method was the way used to kill babies who were seen as potential threats to the regime as they may grow up wanting to seek revenge for their murdered parents.  The babies were held by their feet and had their heads smashed off a tree.
Some of the skulls that have been excavated at Choeung Ek


Memorial at the 'Killing Fields'.
Knowing exactly what the Taliban and their Al Queda mates get up to, given half a chance, nothing evil that human beings do to each other surprises me anymore.  The thing about Cambodia is the sheer scale of killing 25% of the national population, and the sheer pointlessness of it- not that Islam is any justification, but there is a perverse logic to those boys’ ‘death cult’ mentality.
Sihanouk, the post colonial ruler of Cambodia in the 60’s was seen as being pro- North Vietnam, although he claimed neutrality, and was opposed by the Americans.  While he was visiting China in 1970 he was ousted in an American backed coup.  This lead to the Viet Cong and their Cambodian equivalent the Khmer Rouge, to attempt to retake control.  The Khmer Rouge ended up taking control of Phnom Penh in April 1975, a couple of weeks before the fall of Saigon.
Immediately, the country was renamed ‘Democratic Kampuchea’ and Pol Pot the Khmer Rouge leader set about achieving his stated aim of of turning the country into an 11th century agricultural economy.  People living in cities were forced to walk out into the countryside to work in rice paddies.  All elements of Western life, including hospitals, were destroyed along with all evidence of religion, including Buddhist, Catholic and the Cham Muslims.  Minority Chinese and Vietnamese, as well as evidence of contact with the previous regime or with foreign nationals were all regarded as a threat.  People were encouraged to confess and ‘wipe the slate clean’- before being taken away and executed.
An academic background or an ability to speak a foreign language was seen as a threat, and a guaranteed execution.  The fact that Pol Pot himself had studied Marxism in Paris showed a level of hypocrisy which Blair/ Mandelson/ Campbell types can only look on at in bewildered awe.
Ultimately, the Khmer Rouge bloodbath ended in 1978 when the Vietnamese, who were not exactly regarded as liberators in Saigon 3 yrs earlier, invaded and took over.  Civil war and internal turmoil carried on until 1991, when peace was agreed and the monarchy was restored in 1993.  Apart from a brief attempted coup in 1997 there has been peace ever since.
Anyway after our little trip around Choeung Ek, we had the opportunity to go to visit S-21 prison, but the general feeling was that we were all a bit ‘Genocided Out’ by then, so we headed back into town.  I found it strange that my friends then professed a feeling of guilt about the fact they’d enjoyed ‘playing with guns’ immediately before.  I did try to explain the fact that the only way evil is prevented in the world is by “Rough men standing ready in the night... etc”, but they weren’t entirely convinced.
Anyway, after a couple more days in Phnom Penh our party has dispersed around Cambodia, although I think I’m just going to fly to Kuala Lumpa in the next couple of days, Inshallah...

Sunday, April 10, 2011

Departure from Saigon.

Paddy Rice’s Irish pub, the water front, Phnom Penh, Cambodia
Just nursing a few cups of coffee after sitting up until 3AM watching England’s finest rugby players in Leicester and Toulon try to redeem some dignity after the 6 Nations shocker in Dublin... and fail.
Prior to leaving Saigon it seemed appropriate to visit the locations where the final acts of the war were played out in April 1975.  I also went to the so called ‘War Remnants Museum’ which was a piece of Anti-American propaganda which would even impress the BBC.  As well as displaying captured American weapons and kit, as well as an Australian SLR rifle, they really go to town with My Lai.  However, they also show the 2 US Army pilots who intervened to halt the massacre, as if in some way they were anti-American traitors.  No effort is spared to show every angle of Agent Orange and Napalm (both used to clear the jungle) effects, both on the individuals at the time and the next generation.  While a quick glance at babies with 2 heads or whatever was enough for me to get the picture, plenty of Westerner tourists seemed determined to look at every single gruesome photograph, and I do wonder what particular effect they were hoping to achieve for themselves.  If the commies wanted me to feel any self-loathing or anti-Americanism, they would have had to have tried an awful lot harder.  
War Remnants Museum

Model of US soldier in 'Nam, with M-16 rifle.  His rank is E-6 Staff Sergent, which is equivalent to Corporal in UK.

On the way to look at the site of the US Embassy, we saw the British Consulate across the road from it.  While I am usually heartened by the sight of the Union Flag whenever I see it abroad, this particular one was so faded and threadbare, I got quite annoyed.  The fact it was flying next to the European Union flag (speaking of totalitarian, extreme, left-wing regimes) really annoyed me.  If anybody is reading this from the Foreign and Commonwealth Office, get a f*cking grip.  David Cameron may feel ashamed of being British, but I certainly don’t.
 I hadn’t realised that the former US Embassy has now been re-occupied by the Americans as the Consulate, and it must be somewhat surreal for the people based there- particularly the Marine guards whose predecessors were the final players of America’s involvement in South Vietnam.
In October 1972 details of secret negotiations between US Secretary of State Henry Kissinger, under President Nixon, and the North Vietnamese Govt were publicised by Hanoi.  Feeling that the Communists were trying to pressure him, ‘Tricky Dicky’ ordered ‘Operation Linebacker II’ (you’ve got to love the names the yanks come out with!) which was air strikes on Hanoi and which succeeded in persuading the North that they did actually really want peace after all.  On the 15th of January 1973 President Nixon announced the end of US offensive operations against North Vietnam.  The Paris Peace Accords were signed later that month and this agreed a ceasefire.  It also arranged for the release of all POW’s (Prisoners Of War).   
Following this, the vast majority of American troops withdrew, handing over responsibility to the South Vietnamese.  The Americans who were doing the OMLT (‘omlette’, Operational Mentoring and Liaison Team- the NATO troops embedded on the ground with the Afghan Army units) type tasking remained, with American air support on call, as a reassurance for the reluctant South Vietnamese.  However, nearly 2 years later, in December 1974 the US Congress cut off all military aid to South Vietnam, including the air support.  Following on from this, the North Vietnamese swiftly attacked South Vietnam, and were surprised by just what a shambles the ARVN forces were as they retreated en masse towards Saigon, which was surrounded by the end of April. 
The Americans launched as orderly an evacuation as possible of both American staff and their South Vietnamese colleagues who were most at risk of reprisal from the communists.  The initial evacuations were by transport aircraft to Clark Air Force Base in the Philippines, but once Tan Son Nhut Airbase (now Ho Chi Minh City Airport) had been rendered inoperable by rocket and artillery fire, the evacuation was done by helicopter to warships off the coast.  110,000 Vietnamese civilians were evacuated as well as 978 US personnel.  Ambassador Martin left at 5AM on the morning of the 30th of April and, after a pause when they genuinely thought they might be left behind to face the NVA on their own, the last 11 US Marines were heli-ed out of the Embassy at 8AM.  That day the NVA rolled through Saigon, more or less unopposed and drove through the gates of the parliament building- now the ‘Reunification Palace’.  Legend has it that the senior South Vietnamese official there said to the NVA tank commander “I have been waiting for you to arrive so I can surrender,” to which the NVA officer responded “You are not in a position to give away what you do not possess.”
View of Reunification Palace/ South Vietnamese parliament from tanks positioned where NVA tanks arrived at end of war.

The final toll of Vietnam was 58,000 Americans dead, 5,000 South Koreans, 1,000 Thais, 521 Aussies and 31 Kiwis.  On the North Vietnamese Army/ Viet Cong side, they lost over a million men.  In addition the South Vietnamese Army lost over 200,000 dead and the estimates of civilian casualties range between 2 and 4 million.  There are also 2,000 Americans who are still listed as Missing In Action (MIA), and who’s fate may never be known.
After 3 weeks in Vietnam the main legacy of the war that I perceived is that the country is an interesting paradox.  On the one hand you can read all the propaganda rubbish at the ‘Hanoi Hilton’, Khe Sahn, Cu Chi etc about terrified, pathetic Americans and if you know nothing (which most tourists seem to) you will get the impression that the Vietnamese have nothing but justified contempt for the Americans.  I did have to educate some people that while Agent Orange is not ideal, and should never be used, the Americans didn’t realise the side effects, and as they had a pressing need to clear the jungle and flush out ‘Charlie’, it’s use in the context of the circumstances could be understood.  Obviously, if they’d understood what would happen they wouldn’t have used it as they’re a decent, civilised country who were trying to do the right thing.  Today, aside from the obvious propoganda, the only effect of communism to the tourist is the half-hearted attempt to block internet access to Facebook, and sometimes the BBC (which is strange as that’s the most anti-Western institution on the planet!).
The other side of the paradox, however, is that the Vietnamese clearly respect America enormously.  Diplomatic relations were resumed with the US in the 90’s with President Clinton making a state visit.  Unfortunately Clinton’s own contribution to his country during the war was to hide at Oxford University, smoking cannabis to avoid his military service (how such a spineless, dishonourable scrote could end up as President of the United States never fails to amaze me).  It is a myth that America actually lost the Vietnam War militarily, South Vietnam was only invaded by the North once American involvement entirely stopped, and you can see through all the propaganda that the Vietnamese know this.  Ultimately, the reality is that if the Americans really wanted to defeat the North Vietnamese, they could have ‘nuked’ them as they did the Japanese.  As the Americans evacuated Saigon they flew over NVA positions, but the NVA were under strict orders to not engage as the last thing Hanoi wanted was the Americans coming back.
The most obvious manifestation of the appeal of America in modern Vietnam is the marketing/ branding visible, much the same as anywhere else in the world.  While McD’s and Starbucks are obviously still a bit much for the commies, the Pepsi, KFC and Subway logo’s are visible everywhere, along with all the clothing/ sunglasses/ cars/ electronic goods etc available in the West.  The adverts all show Vietnamese models/ actors looking as Western (i.e. American) as possible.  Amusingly I was told in Da Lat that physically I represent the Vietnamese ideal: tall, blonde, blue-eyed... and pale, with a big nose and a fat face!
In terms of how Vietnam is relevant to Afghanistan, who knows if there will be organised ‘Terry’s Tours’ bus trips around Sangin and Nad-e-Ali in 40 yrs, with opportunities to fire M-4’s and SA-80’s.  Somehow I doubt the Marines at Khe Sahn in ‘68 thought that dizzy blonde ‘college students’ would be flirting with British tourists on the same spot 40 years later!   The thing I found most remarkable is that the people of Vietnam do not act like one might expect people whose country was at war for decades, they’ve just got on with life, as humans generally always do, regardless of what particular type of government they’re living under.  Bearing this in mind, any strategy in Afghanistan (or anywhere else) has to be focussed on the civilian side of life, offering the civilian population what they want, and starving the insurgency of the popular support needed to sustain it.  The same people are still going to be living there long after NATO and the Taliban have been forgotten about. 
No Western army can ever compete with the fear factor that the VC/ Taliban can instil in the civilian population, because that’s not what we’re about.  For this reason Counter-Insurgency should be pursued more as a ‘General Election’ or marketing campaign than as a war, with civilians actually taking centre stage in presenting the local population with a better lifestyle than the alternative, with the military in the background.  I read a quote by a US Navy SEAL commando saying that he loved his job in Vietnam  and the SEALSs would have been happy if ‘Nam had lasted 100 yrs, but there’s no point killing bad guys day in, day out if you’re not actually achieving a strategic effect.   The term ‘Hearts and Minds’ has become a cliché, and we all laugh at the jokes such as “Two in the chest, one in the head”, or “Grab the balls, and the hearts and minds will follow”, but it is the key to winning a Counter Insurgency.  The reason why the campaigns in Malaya, Oman and, let’s not forget, Iraq were successful is that the population genuinely believed that what was being offered by Britain/ the allies was a better bet than what was being offered by the other side.  Either way, let’s hope that people will be going on holiday to Afghanistan much sooner than 40 yrs time.
Anyway, after the sights of Saigon, I got up the next day and got the 6 hour bus trip to Phnom Penh in Cambodia.  I had minimal knowledge of the Killing Fields, Pol Pot etc- beyond the fact it was brutal enough for the Vietnamese communists to turn up, save the day, and be portrayed as the good guys...